Monday 16 April 2012

MAKING KOEKSISTERS


Koeksisters (pronounced - cooksisters) a very South African confectionary delicacy has been enjoyed amongst the different communities for a very long time.  A very good description of Koeksisters is:
"A koeksister or koesister comes from the Dutch word koekje, which translates to 'cookie'.  It is a South African syrup-coated doughnut in a twisted or braided shape (like a plait).  It is prepared by deep-frying dough in oil, then dipping the fried dough into cold sugar syrup.  Koeksister are very sticky and sweet and taste like honey.
Koeksistes are of Cape Malay origin.  The Afrikaner version is much more syrupy and crisp while the Cape Malay version's texture is more like that of a cake, spicier, and usually covered in dried coconut." (Wikipedia)   South African history reflected in food!

I grew up under apartheid and in my 'Coloured' (mixed race) community the Cape Malay version was sold by 'aunties' in the community.  There was Aunt Julia, literally our neighbour at the back, whose plain koeksisters were doughnut shaped but coated with coconut, Aunt Sally whose plaited koeksisters were spicy and a few other ladies and then, there was me!

My aunt taught me how to make a plain koeksister using a potato recipe which I've come to perfect over years by adding spices, etc. Instead of selling from home I went from house to house selling..... oh those days!  It was a Sunday morning only operation, selling early enough so people could have it with their first cuppa of the day!  On a good Sunday I would make up to 1200 koeksisters and sell it all....... getting up at around 2.00am in the morning.

I make my koeksisters pretty much as described above except (using my own recipe of course) that I wait for the koeksisters to cool off before dunking them in slow boiling syrup.
I've left a legacy in the community of my hometown Grahamstown RSA as everybody remembers me fondly as the koeksister man!


















MAKING LIME PICKLE


Lime Pickle is a condiment that has crept into use in South African homes very unobtrusively.  In my opinion this very delicious pickle has not been exposed enough although it is very much enjoyed in the Kwa-Zulu Natal region of South Africa for very obvious reasons.  This is where the majority of the Asian (Indian) population is concentrated and this is a delicacy that they have introduced into the South African gastronomy together with Mango Pickles (Achar).

I have always enjoyed the combination of spices and the lime bitterness that work well together to create a delightful accompaniment to any meal. It will enhance the culinary experience of a meal as simple as a sandwich. Lime Pickle has a piquancy without the chilli 'hot'. It is really delicious!

This pickle was hardly ever homemade although when bought, it was much enjoyed by everyone! I have greatly researched this 'MUST have' pickle before developing a condiment with a unique flavour that I know people globally WILL enjoy!






The main ingredients for this pickle are: limes, sea salt, fenugreek mustard seeds, cumin, dried chilli, turmeric, powdered chilli, green chillies, mustard oil and asafoetida.











Friday 6 April 2012

PICKLED FISH AND HOT CROSS BUNS



So after all the observances for Good Friday,
the time has come at last for a hearty meal of Pickle fish [sic] and Hot Cross Buns!




HOT CROSS BUNS

When I think of Hot Cross Buns I can't help thinking of my dear Aunt Kate. Oh how she use to terrorise poor Uncle Linton into buying all the right ingredients and only the best. I recall a day when he came home with salted butter instead of unsalted,  she went ballistic. The tantrum Aunt Kate threw was hilarious...... NOW! Bless their souls!  Preparing for Good Friday was as much a religious practice as being Roman Catholic for her!  She honed all her energies into making perfect pickle fish, Gefilte Fish and Hot Cross Buns for Good Friday! Drawing ideas and practices from different cultures into ones own (a very normal practice) truly reflects the strength and diversity of the coloured (mixed race) community in South Africa!

I always ended up doing the laborious tasks in the making process because as she put it: "my arms kannie meer nie (my[her] arms can't anymore)"! My aunt never discussed the ingredients and quantities, it was always just the method because that part involved me.  I cherish those privileged moments that I shared with them. Her hot cross buns always were really soft and deliciously spicy!

I made my own last night, combining various recipes with my own experiences and voila!










PICKLED FISH


PICKLE FISH [sic]  is a very big traditional Good Friday delicacy in the coloured (mixed race) community of South Africa.  The tradition, drawing from various cultures, is rooted in the Christian practices of keeping Good Friday as a Holy day of fast and abstinence (no meat and no work - hence no cooking either). The method of making pickle fish lends itself perfectly to Good Friday observances. My own family tradition has always been to refrain from meat after the Maundy Thursday Evening Mass until Easter Saturday.  On Good Friday we would normally fast until after the three hour Good Friday service whereafter we would feast ourselves on pickle fish and hot cross buns!


Pickle fish is prepared by frying a fairly meaty fleshed fish in batter and then covering it with a pickled onion sauce.  The pickle sauce is normally quite spicy.  The pickle fish then has to stand for several days absorbing all the flavours of the spices and vinegar for intensity and is served as a cold dish (room temperature). During Holy Week the aromas of pickle fish emanating from all the homes can be quite overwhelming. There is nothing better than a plate of pickle fish and a freshly baked hot cross bun on Good Friday!